On an average, easy to walk on single story roof, Skyline collectors can be safely installed by one technically competent person in good heath. The collector is either 6 (10-01) or 12 feet long (20-01), only 20 inches wide and under 20 or 40 pounds respectively, making it an ideal size and weight for one person to lean the 20-01 against the roof or gutter, go up the ladder and simply pick up the collector and place on the roof. For the 20-01, have the collector at a good angle to the roof (out from the bottom), protecting the gutter with a heavy cloth may be a good idea, do not lean over the edge of the roof at all, simply pull and leverage the collector up onto the roof. The assembled collector is very sturdy but avoid any "twisting" action.

The installation of the Skyline solar water heater should be an enjoyable experience; however, as some work is on a roof, always use extreme caution, never install when windy conditions exist or the roof is wet or slippery. We recommend the use of a heavy nylon safety rope and a "stop board" nailed to the roof below the collector on slippery or steep (over 30 degree pitch) roofs. On steep roofs, always, in addition to the above, use a sturdy safety rope, ladders with hooks on either side of the collector and/or a securely mounted roof walkway system.

They must be installed horizontally as shown below:

The Diagram above is a top view of two collectors installed together showing:

      1. Two 20" x 12' Collectors mounted with connections to the right.
      2. The Mounting Rails (3 per collector, 6 shown in this diagram).
      3. The "Hot Out" Collector connection going to the storage tank.
      4. The between Collector connection.
      5. The "Cold In" Collector connection from the storage tank.
      6. The Quick Mount clip which holds the Collectors on their Mounting Rails.
      7. Collector Glazing
      8. Collector trim sections.

The connections (3 & 5) are made at the top and bottom of ONE end of the collector. The connections can be at either end of the collector simply by placing the end left or right. The collector is attached to the roof by three "mounting rails" (2). When two or more collectors are used they also connect at the same end (4). The mounting rails (2) have "tabs" which slip under the trim for an attractive appearance and increased strength. When two or more collectors are installed a special Patent Pending, Quick Mount clip (6) is used between the collectors to firmly hold them onto the mounting rail.

Two mounting rails (2) are installed about 2 feet in from the end with the third approximately in the center. As the mounting rails are attached with lags (2A) that go through the roof sheathing (2B) and into rafters (2C), initial locating of collector placement is important. Installation is made easier because the end mounting rails are attached first with the center one in place but easily moved and attached last.

The above Diagram shows a side view of the Collector installed on the roof and shows:

      1. Side view of a Collector.
      2. Mounting Rails (3 per collector).
      2A. Mounting Rail Lag.
      2B. Roof sheathing.
      2C. Roof Rafter.
      3. Collector connection.
      8. Collector Trim sections.

BE SECURE AND USE CARE!!!

Good procedure suggests that you always secure your ladder to the gutter so it does not slip. Place blocks in the gutter so the weight of the ladder does not crush the gutter. Protect the surface of the gutter with a cloth to prevent marks.

WALKING ON THE ROOF:

Use soft sole shoes. Walk in the center of the shingle to prevent knocking off the brittle ends of the shingles. This care will keep the roof in good condition and prevent dangerous ball-bearing like gravel and tar balls from making the roof treacherous. Know how to walk on your roof if it is a special type such as Tile or Metal, ask your roofer or ask us. For example, stepping in the center of most Tile roof shingles will break them. Always put your weight on the last two (overlapping) inches of the tile and away from the side that overlaps the next tile (to avoid chipping off the delicate vertical overlap strip). On some shingles, such as "Fire Free," more damage is done stepping on the end than in stepping on the center. Shake roofs are usually easy to walk on but use care on shake roofs to not crack or break off brittle shakes. Shake roofs, as well as most roofs, can be treacherous when wet.

SAFETY FIRST!!

USE CAUTION!!! Do not attempt to self install if you have any back or physical limitations!!!

DETERMINE THE BEST PIPE RUN FIRST

COORDINATE THE PIPE RUN WITH THE BEST SOUTH* FACING COLLECTOR LOCATION FOR THE SHORTEST RUN.
* - north facing in the southern hemisphere!

COMMON RUNS In many one story homes, the run is a simple matter of going up into the garage rafter area and to the roof or going through a wall or ceiling into the attic.

Common pipe runs to the basement include runs adjacent to air return chases, plumbing and vent lines and through closets. In a two story house runs can be challenging; however, it is amazing how often a good solution is at hand. (See Drawings 1.4.3. and 1.4.4.) [2/22/98 - coming]

CHASES: Look for pipe, fireplace and duct chases with room around them. The pipes can often be dropped down next to a duct, especially in a one story house, in just a few minutes.

CLOSETS: Sometimes the easiest way to run the pipes is through closets (look for "stacked" closets in a two story house). Since 1/2" copper pipes are fairly flexible, drilling through even many shelves with an angle drill is easy as alignment does not have to be precise.

NOTE: Copper pipes get harder, even brittle with multiple bending, bend your pipe as little as possible for the easiest installation!

DRYWALL: It is sometimes necessary to cut drywall at the floor or ceiling level in order to cut the holes in a fire stop. Usually this hole can be made out of sight in a closet. After sealing the fire stop, it may be desirable to make the remaining drywall removable by putting a simple frame around it and placing it back in place with a few finish nails.

INFILTRATION AND FIRE STOPS: In all situations, remember that infiltration is one of the main sources of energy loss in a house. In no way should the installation of a solar system contribute to this loss! ALWAYS seal up any holes made in the house envelope especially in the attic and fire stops. Fire stops must be properly put back in place so their important function is preserved. Converting to copper pipe for two feet on either side of the fire stop may be required in some areas.

STORAGE: (also see Tanks and Tankless)

• For open loop systems you need a storage tank that is at least 50 gallons, although 40 gallons water heaters can work well with up to 30 s/f of collector area (3, 10-01 collectors). You will need room to work around it and space for the solar hardware, usually a foot on the drain side of the heater is adequate. You will need to turn off power to the tank, drain the tank, (unless installing the optional "top connect" remove the drain and install the tank connection components per the instructions in the illustrated Manual.

• For larger families, or for situations where there is a small water heater, adding a low cost 50 gallon or larger water heater and using it only for the solar can be a good idea although plumbing will be required. For greatest efficiency with a single electric tank, plan on having a qualified person disconnect the lower element and try to use only the top element for backup. If this does not work well during the winter, first try using water efficiency such as low flow shower heads and aerators and/or add a 220v switch to the bottom element. Try turning the power off during sunny summer days. You should have ample Hot water with 1 panel for a family of 3 and with 2 panels for a family of 4 or 5 on clear summer days.

• For Closed loop system 4 and 5 a special Rheem / Rudd heat exchanger storage tank is always used with system 5 and is the standard option used with system 4 although two other heat exchange options are available, the "Power Rod" external heat exchanger, and the "Hot Rod" Butler Wand which inserts in the Hot Out of a standard water heater.

IMPORTANT:

• CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL BUILDING DEPARTMENT FOR CODE COMPLIANCE FOR THE INSTALLATION OF YOUR SOLAR WATER HEATING SYSTEM. IN SOME AREAS NO PERMITS ARE NEEDED FOR EASILY "REMOVABLE OR NON-PERMANENT IMPROVEMENTS" LIKE THE SKYLINE COLLECTOR.

• IF NO PERMIT IS NEEDED TO INSTALL YOUR SOLAR WATER HEATER IF IT IS "REMOVABLE," YOU CAN CONTACT US IF A "REMOVABLE" COLLECTOR INSTALL KIT, USING "WING NUTS" IS NEEDED.

• JURISDICTIONAL VARIATIONS IN MATERIAL USAGE. ELECTRICAL LINE CORDS AS WELL AS RULES AFFECTING PENETRATING STRUCTURAL MEMBERS AND FIRE ASSEMBLIES NEED TO BE CHECKED OUT IN ADVANCE OF INSTALLATION. IN ALL CASES WHERE A FIRE WALL (DRYWALL) IS PENETRATED, IT IS IMPORTANT TO SEAL THE HOLE.

• A GOOD GENERAL RULE IS TO ALWAYS FILL IN AND SEAL AROUND ALL HOLES MADE FOR SOLAR LINES TO PREVENT HEAT LOSS AND TO MAINTAIN FIRE STOPS.

• PROPERLY SUPPORT ALL PIPING ACCORDING TO LOCAL CODE. AS A RULE, SUPPORT COPPER PIPE LINES EVERY 6'.

• THE SKYLINE SYSTEM IS EASIER TO INSTALL; HOWEVER, PROBLEMS RESULTING FROM A FAILURE TO CORRECTLY INSTALL THE SYSTEM ACCORDING TO INSTRUCTIONS AND TO MAINTAIN IT ACCORDING TO THE OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL ARE NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY.

• IT IS ASSUMED THAT THE INSTALLER HAS SOME MECHANICAL EXPERIENCE AND CAN CONFIDENTLY RELATE TO TOOLS, MATERIALS AND SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS FROM THEIR OWN EXPERIENCE. SOLARROOFS.COM DOES NOT ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY LOSS, DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY, ASSOCIATED WITH THE INSTALLATION OF THIS SYSTEM.

INSULATION:
INSULATION OF EXPOSED PIPES IS RECOMMENDED. A MINIMUM 1/2" R-2.6 (closed-cell insulation) IS NEEDED AND 3/4" R-4.5 OR BETTER IS RECOMMENDED. Check your state and local codes to see if any greater thickness is required ESPECIALLY IF REBATES OR INCENTIVES ARE INVOLVED.

 

Return to Technical

Go To Installation

Page Updated on: May 29, 2006